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The video below shows the assembly of a classic barrel sauna. Check out of YouTube channel for more sauna installation videos. A detailed assembly manual is also available after purchase.
The video below shows the assembly of a cube sauna. Check out of YouTube channel for more sauna installation videos. A detailed assembly manual is also available after purchase.
For best performance, we recommend placing the thermometer ~12" to the right or left of the heater and ~20" below the ceiling.
Heat will rise to the top of the sauna, so the top of the sauna will be hotter than the bottom. To run your sauna at a higher temperature, place the thermometer lower. If you plan on lowering your thermometer, we recommended lowering by ~3" inches at a time. After lowering the thermometer, use the sauna a few times to test the sauna's maximum temperature at this height. Continue lowering until you reach your desired temperature.
Customers running the sauna at high temperatures do so at their own risk. Consult with a doctor before using your sauna.
Our lightest sauna weighs ~900 lbs.
Our heaviest sauna weighs ~2,000 lbs.
The weight for each sauna is shown on the product page in the specifications tab.
When building a foundation, remember that you must also account for the weight of the bathers inside the sauna. This can easily add an extra 1,000 lbs if you have an 8-person unit.
It is important to choose a site that has a level, strong, and stable foundation. This is critical because a sauna with several bathers inside can weigh over 1000 lbs. A deck or concrete pad (patio) are both excellent options for placing your sauna atop.
If you will be placing the sauna directly on the ground, we recommend you rest the support cradles atop concrete pavers to prevent the cradles from settling into the ground. This could result in the sauna not sitting level and may cause issues over time.
We do not recommend placing the hot tub directly on the ground. Due to the weight, the sauna will sink into the ground and may become unbalanced.
If you have ever seen a sauna on a deck, you know it is a wonderful place for a sauna. It looks great, and it is close to the house, meaning you will maximize your usage of the sauna. If you choose to install your sauna on a deck, be sure that your deck has been designed to support the weight of a full sauna (over 1,000 lbs). We recommend you have the deck inspected by a qualified architect or building engineer prior to proceeding.
If constructed properly (compacted well and leveled), a concrete pad will maximize the life of your sauna. The concrete pad should be at least 4" thick and reinforced with mesh to minimize cracking. We recommend constructing the pad significantly larger than needed for the sauna alone, as this will allow room for accessories such as chairs and tables. There is a wealth of information available online with instructions on how to design and pour a concrete pad.
Whether your sauna needs a damp proof course, and what type of damp proof course to use depends on your foundation.
Dirt or Grass
We never recommend putting a sauna right on top of dirt or grass.
If you have a grassy backyard and don’t want to build a structure for the sauna to sit on (e.g., concrete pad), the easiest solution is to lay gravel. If you’re putting the sauna on top of a gravel bed you don’t need damp proofing because the water will drain through the rocks. You can easily create a gravel bed using a plastic fast-fit “grid” system, they help contain and level your gravel and provide a weed-proof barrier.
If building on a deck, a damp-proof course is not required as long as the sauna is elevated and not directly in contact with the ground (dirt) at any point.
For extra protection, you can add a vapor barrier under the sauna. These are inexpensive and look like plastic sheets. This would only be required if you building a sauna with a base frame such as a garden or cabin sauna.
Having a moisture-proof layer is most important if you’re building on top of concrete.
Concrete is permeable and susceptible to dampness, which would go up into the sauna. There are lots of solutions for concrete floors. One example is Sika® MB Solvent Free, Epoxy Moisture Barrier. You would apply this to the top of the concrete like paint using a roller. When it drys it creates a moisture barrier. This type of moisture barrier is strongly recommended for any sauna with a base frame such as the garden or cabin sauna.
Instead of pouring a full-sized concrete pad for their sauna, some customers prefer to pour concrete “fingers” for the cradles to sit on. The fingers must be poured to accommodate the cradle’s size and spacing. Cradle dimensions for all our finger-compatible saunas are below.
Wood is a natural product that swells and shrinks, as a result, part sizes can vary between units. If you are pouring concrete fingers, we recommend a minimum 6-inch buffer on all sides of your fingers (see the illustrative finger sizes below). The finger should be larger than the cradle on all sides. Leaving additional room for the fingers will make assembly much easier.